Water-fill hoses: Over time, the water hoses that came with your new washing machine may leak or burst. It's a good preventive maintenance practice to check these hoses from time to time for any sign of wear or weakness. Often there's a small blister in the rubber of the hose, which could rupture. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the hoses every 5 years.
Note: If the hose ruptures, large quantities of water could gush from the hose. If it's the hot water hose that ruptures, the gushing hot water may scald anyone nearby. For more peace of mind, one alternative is to use high quality stainless steel fill hoses.
Leveling: Because your washing machine is so heavy, when it's not level, it can vibrate strongly during the spin cycle. If your washing machine is not perfectly level--with all four legs touching the floor--it can bang and rock back and forth, and even begin to "walk" across the room. This isn't good for the machine and may damage anything near the machine. Your washing machine has adjustable, front leveling legs with a lock nut. You adjust the leg to the proper height, then tighten the lock nut up against the body of the machine to keep the leg from rotating. Some machines have adjustable leveling legs in the rear also, and you can adjust them in the same way. Keep the machine as close to the floor as possible--the lower it is, the less likely it is to vibrate. Most machines, however, have "self-adjusting" rear legs. You set these legs by tilting the entire machine forward onto its front legs (with the rear legs 3 to 4 inches off the floor) and then setting the machine back down. The legs should adjust automatically. If they don't, you may need to tilt the machine forward and rap on the rear legs with the handle of a hammer to loosen them--a procedure that's easier to accomplish with a helper.
Surface cleaning: Your washer has either a painted steel or porcelain-coated steel cabinet. It's perfectly safe to use a little dish detergent and a damp rag to clean all of its surfaces. If the surface is porcelain, you can even use a little non-abrasive cleanser for stubborn stains.
Lint disposal: Most washing machines collect lint during the wash cycle and send it down the drain during the drain cycle. If your machine is a Maytag, though, it may be different. Most Maytag washing machines collect lint in the center tube of the agitator. You need to lift out that tube and clean it periodically. Other machines have a lint filter near the top of the tub, which you need to slide out, clean off, and reinsert.
Showing posts with label Appliance Maintenance Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Appliance Maintenance Tips. Show all posts
Monday, October 5, 2009
Washing machine efficiency tips
· 80 – 85% of energy used by a washing machine goes into heating the water. Switch the temperature setting from hot to warm and that will cut the energy used in half.
· Small loads use as much energy as large loads, therefore, whenever possible, wait until you have a large load.
· Make sure to select the correct water level for each load.
· Rinsing in cold water (as per Ontario Hydro) could save you up to $23.00 a year in energy cost.
· Check washer hoses and screens for wear and tear, and consider switching to metal hoses.
· “Suds saver” washers reuse water through successive loads, thereby conserving water and detergent.
· Front load machines use up to 40% less energy to run, they save up to 50% on water bills and uses ½ the amount of soap compared to a top loading machine.
· Front load machines also remove more water from clothes, which cuts down on the time it takes to dry clothing.
· Small loads use as much energy as large loads, therefore, whenever possible, wait until you have a large load.
· Make sure to select the correct water level for each load.
· Rinsing in cold water (as per Ontario Hydro) could save you up to $23.00 a year in energy cost.
· Check washer hoses and screens for wear and tear, and consider switching to metal hoses.
· “Suds saver” washers reuse water through successive loads, thereby conserving water and detergent.
· Front load machines use up to 40% less energy to run, they save up to 50% on water bills and uses ½ the amount of soap compared to a top loading machine.
· Front load machines also remove more water from clothes, which cuts down on the time it takes to dry clothing.
Appliance use and care
With care, appliances get shot at longer life.
That ancient hand-crank washing machine may have been an enormous pain for our great-grandmothers, but it was built to last.
Today's modern appliances are built for energy efficiency and convenience for the user, but they also have a shorter lifespan.
The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers says today's washers need to be replaced about every 12 years, and most other appliances don't last much longer.
And as far as specific brands, none lasts significantly longer the others, according to Consumer Reports. Their studies show that, across the board, appliances from a wide variety of manufacturers carry similar life spans.
All appliances can break down before their optimal end dates or fail to work at peak performance if not properly maintained. To make the most of the life they do have, follow the maintenance suggestions in the user manual or try these tips from Consumer Reports:
Refrigerator
Life expectancy: 14-17 years
• Clean the compressor coils every few months or so (typically, coils are at the bottom of the unit).
• Keep gaskets on the refrigerator and freezer doors clean with mild detergent and water, not bleach, to ensure a good seal and prevent wasted energy.
• Check the gasket seal by closing the doors on a dollar bill; replace the gasket if the bill falls out or can be easily removed without opening the door.
Stove
Life expectancy: 17 years
• Place heavy pots and pans gently on smooth-top models to avoid breakage.
• Never cover drip pans and bowls with foil; it can short-circuit the burner.
• Keep reflector bowls (beneath burners) shiny and clean, which affects how efficiently they reflect heat up to the pan or pot. Replace them when they can no longer be cleaned.
• Gas stoves: periodically clean burner ports with a needle and don't poke the igniter or spray it with oven cleaner.
Wall oven
Life expectancy: 17 years
• Check door seals for damage.
• If heat is escaping from an older oven, adjust or replace the gasket.
Washing machine
Life expectancy: 11-14 years
• Remove grit from the screens where the hoses attach to the water supplies.
• Don't overload the washer beyond its manufacturer-recommended capacity.
• Install the washer on a level and well-supported subfloor to prevent vibration and banging.
Dryer
Life expectancy: 13 years
• Clean lint filter after each use to keep air flowing freely.
• Each year, clean the entire exhaust duct to keep it from clogging and creating a fire hazard.
Microwave
Life expectancy: 9 years
• Avoid turning on when empty and avoid putting metal inside.
Dishwasher
Life expectancy: 11 years
• Replace a dish rack with worn or rusted tines.
• When loading, make sure silverware and dishes don't catch the spray arms to avoid damaging the arms.
• Inspect the spray arms for paper, glass or other debris, which can clog holes. Remove any obstructions. If you find glass, inspect the pump housing for glass, as well as any seals that it might have punctured.
• If your dishwasher has a manual-clean filter, clean the filter regularly, as per the manufacturer's instructions.
Projection TV
Life expectancy: 30,000-60,000 hours, about 3½ to 7 years if used 24/7
• Screens can scratch easily, so be careful when cleaning them.
Conventional tube television
Life expectancy: 30,000 hours, about 3½ years if used 24/7
• Keep out of direct sunlight and away from heat. Remove dust from screen and vents. Keep screen brightness (contrast settings) low to prolong picture life and reduce chance of "burn in," a permanent disfiguring of areas of the screen.
That ancient hand-crank washing machine may have been an enormous pain for our great-grandmothers, but it was built to last.
Today's modern appliances are built for energy efficiency and convenience for the user, but they also have a shorter lifespan.
The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers says today's washers need to be replaced about every 12 years, and most other appliances don't last much longer.
And as far as specific brands, none lasts significantly longer the others, according to Consumer Reports. Their studies show that, across the board, appliances from a wide variety of manufacturers carry similar life spans.
All appliances can break down before their optimal end dates or fail to work at peak performance if not properly maintained. To make the most of the life they do have, follow the maintenance suggestions in the user manual or try these tips from Consumer Reports:
Refrigerator
Life expectancy: 14-17 years
• Clean the compressor coils every few months or so (typically, coils are at the bottom of the unit).
• Keep gaskets on the refrigerator and freezer doors clean with mild detergent and water, not bleach, to ensure a good seal and prevent wasted energy.
• Check the gasket seal by closing the doors on a dollar bill; replace the gasket if the bill falls out or can be easily removed without opening the door.
Stove
Life expectancy: 17 years
• Place heavy pots and pans gently on smooth-top models to avoid breakage.
• Never cover drip pans and bowls with foil; it can short-circuit the burner.
• Keep reflector bowls (beneath burners) shiny and clean, which affects how efficiently they reflect heat up to the pan or pot. Replace them when they can no longer be cleaned.
• Gas stoves: periodically clean burner ports with a needle and don't poke the igniter or spray it with oven cleaner.
Wall oven
Life expectancy: 17 years
• Check door seals for damage.
• If heat is escaping from an older oven, adjust or replace the gasket.
Washing machine
Life expectancy: 11-14 years
• Remove grit from the screens where the hoses attach to the water supplies.
• Don't overload the washer beyond its manufacturer-recommended capacity.
• Install the washer on a level and well-supported subfloor to prevent vibration and banging.
Dryer
Life expectancy: 13 years
• Clean lint filter after each use to keep air flowing freely.
• Each year, clean the entire exhaust duct to keep it from clogging and creating a fire hazard.
Microwave
Life expectancy: 9 years
• Avoid turning on when empty and avoid putting metal inside.
Dishwasher
Life expectancy: 11 years
• Replace a dish rack with worn or rusted tines.
• When loading, make sure silverware and dishes don't catch the spray arms to avoid damaging the arms.
• Inspect the spray arms for paper, glass or other debris, which can clog holes. Remove any obstructions. If you find glass, inspect the pump housing for glass, as well as any seals that it might have punctured.
• If your dishwasher has a manual-clean filter, clean the filter regularly, as per the manufacturer's instructions.
Projection TV
Life expectancy: 30,000-60,000 hours, about 3½ to 7 years if used 24/7
• Screens can scratch easily, so be careful when cleaning them.
Conventional tube television
Life expectancy: 30,000 hours, about 3½ years if used 24/7
• Keep out of direct sunlight and away from heat. Remove dust from screen and vents. Keep screen brightness (contrast settings) low to prolong picture life and reduce chance of "burn in," a permanent disfiguring of areas of the screen.
Fridge efficiency tips
· New refrigerators can be as much as 50% more efficient then older refrigerators; therefore, if you have a second fridge that is older and not being used as much you can save up to $100.00 per year in energy bills by unplugging the older fridge.
· The temperature reading in a fridge should be about 38 degrees fahrenheit in fresh food section and 0-5 degrees in freezer section. Any cooler means your fridge will be running longer and using more energy.
· Refrigerators are more efficient with air circulation, so do not overload it. If there is a lot of empty space use a jug of water or loaf of bread which will retain the coolness of the fridge better than empty space.
· Have the refrigerator away from any heat source such as a dishwasher, range or direct sunlight.
· Test the door seal to make sure that it is sealing properly.
· Try to limit how often the refrigerator door is opened.
· Do not place hot items into the refrigerator until they have cooled down.
· Cover liquids and wrap foods that are stored in the refrigerator - uncovered foods release moisture and can cause the unit to run longer.
· For refrigerators with a manual defrost, they should be defrosted whenever ¼ of an inch of frost builds up on the walls of the freezer.
· Refrigerator models that have a moisture switch will cost you approximately 5% more to run if left on all year; this switch needs to be on only when moisture is present on the exterior.
· Have the condenser coils on the back or bottom of the refrigerator cleaned every six months - 1 year (the crevice tool on a vacuum works). Your refrigerator will run for shorter periods with cleaner coils.
· The temperature reading in a fridge should be about 38 degrees fahrenheit in fresh food section and 0-5 degrees in freezer section. Any cooler means your fridge will be running longer and using more energy.
· Refrigerators are more efficient with air circulation, so do not overload it. If there is a lot of empty space use a jug of water or loaf of bread which will retain the coolness of the fridge better than empty space.
· Have the refrigerator away from any heat source such as a dishwasher, range or direct sunlight.
· Test the door seal to make sure that it is sealing properly.
· Try to limit how often the refrigerator door is opened.
· Do not place hot items into the refrigerator until they have cooled down.
· Cover liquids and wrap foods that are stored in the refrigerator - uncovered foods release moisture and can cause the unit to run longer.
· For refrigerators with a manual defrost, they should be defrosted whenever ¼ of an inch of frost builds up on the walls of the freezer.
· Refrigerator models that have a moisture switch will cost you approximately 5% more to run if left on all year; this switch needs to be on only when moisture is present on the exterior.
· Have the condenser coils on the back or bottom of the refrigerator cleaned every six months - 1 year (the crevice tool on a vacuum works). Your refrigerator will run for shorter periods with cleaner coils.
Range maintenance tips
Broiler pan: The broiler pan that comes with most range/ovens is porcelain-coated steel. Clean it with a non-abrasive cleanser.
Control panel: Most range/oven control panels are glass and/or painted metal. You can safely use non-abrasive cleaners on these surfaces.
Note: Never spray cleaners directly onto the control panel. Instead, put some cleaner on a soft, damp rag, then wipe the surface.
Cooktop: You can clean any porcelain cooktop with a non-abrasive cleanser.
Note: Don't pour the cleanser directly onto the cooktop. Instead, put some cleaner on a soft, damp rag, then wipe the surface.
Burner drip pans (bowls): You usually need to replace the drip pans or bowls beneath the grates on a gas stove/range and beneath the heating element on an electric stove/range every 2 to 3 years. That's because, once they're stained, it's usually not possible to clean them completely.
Glass cooktops and windows: Always clean glass and ceramic cooktops only with products made for this purpose. Clean your glass oven windows with any oven glass cleaner. Be careful not to clean glass surfaces that are hot!
Knob care: You may be able to safely clean the knobs on your range/oven with a little dish detergent and a damp rag. But, if the numbers or lettering have worn away, you may need to replace the knobs.
Light bulbs: You can replace the light bulb(s) in your range/oven, though you may need to remove a glass covering or dome to reach it. Most interior oven lights require a universal 40 watt appliance bulb.
Oven: If your oven is self-cleaning, consult the owner's manual for instructions on how to use this feature. The self-cleaning feature works by heating the interior of the oven to a temperature so hot that it incinerates the residue inside the oven. Normally, it is not a good idea to clean the interior of a self-cleaning oven with a spray cleaner; however, refer to your owner's manual or contact the manufacturer of your oven for further information.To clean a non-self-cleaning oven, use one of the many oven cleaners that are available at grocery and hardware stores.
Control panel: Most range/oven control panels are glass and/or painted metal. You can safely use non-abrasive cleaners on these surfaces.
Note: Never spray cleaners directly onto the control panel. Instead, put some cleaner on a soft, damp rag, then wipe the surface.
Cooktop: You can clean any porcelain cooktop with a non-abrasive cleanser.
Note: Don't pour the cleanser directly onto the cooktop. Instead, put some cleaner on a soft, damp rag, then wipe the surface.
Burner drip pans (bowls): You usually need to replace the drip pans or bowls beneath the grates on a gas stove/range and beneath the heating element on an electric stove/range every 2 to 3 years. That's because, once they're stained, it's usually not possible to clean them completely.
Glass cooktops and windows: Always clean glass and ceramic cooktops only with products made for this purpose. Clean your glass oven windows with any oven glass cleaner. Be careful not to clean glass surfaces that are hot!
Knob care: You may be able to safely clean the knobs on your range/oven with a little dish detergent and a damp rag. But, if the numbers or lettering have worn away, you may need to replace the knobs.
Light bulbs: You can replace the light bulb(s) in your range/oven, though you may need to remove a glass covering or dome to reach it. Most interior oven lights require a universal 40 watt appliance bulb.
Oven: If your oven is self-cleaning, consult the owner's manual for instructions on how to use this feature. The self-cleaning feature works by heating the interior of the oven to a temperature so hot that it incinerates the residue inside the oven. Normally, it is not a good idea to clean the interior of a self-cleaning oven with a spray cleaner; however, refer to your owner's manual or contact the manufacturer of your oven for further information.To clean a non-self-cleaning oven, use one of the many oven cleaners that are available at grocery and hardware stores.
Microwave maintenance tips
Interior cleaning: Clean the inside of your microwave frequently. Food particles and splatters absorb some of the microwave energy while the unit is operating and may cause burns and other damage to the microwave. You can clean the interior with a microwave oven cleaner.
Exterior cleaning: The touch pad controls, door hardware, and other exterior trim pieces last longer when they're clean.
Surge protection: Because microwave ovens have solid state circuitry inside, they're susceptible to damage from voltage spikes caused by lightening, etc. We recommend that you plug your microwave into an appropriate surge suppressor to protect the circuitry.
Door safety: Your microwave oven's door keeps the microwave energy inside, where it belongs. If the door is in any way damaged, or if the door seal doesn't seem to fit correctly or be in good repair, have the microwave checked by a qualified appliance repair technician.
Running empty: Warning! Never operate a microwave oven without food or liquid inside it. Microwave ovens heat by bombarding the food or liquid in the oven with super-high-frequency microwave sound energy. If there's no food or liquid in the oven to absorb the microwave energy, the energy can feed back to the microwave itself, which can permanently damage the internal microwave antenna (magnetron).
Exterior cleaning: The touch pad controls, door hardware, and other exterior trim pieces last longer when they're clean.
Surge protection: Because microwave ovens have solid state circuitry inside, they're susceptible to damage from voltage spikes caused by lightening, etc. We recommend that you plug your microwave into an appropriate surge suppressor to protect the circuitry.
Door safety: Your microwave oven's door keeps the microwave energy inside, where it belongs. If the door is in any way damaged, or if the door seal doesn't seem to fit correctly or be in good repair, have the microwave checked by a qualified appliance repair technician.
Running empty: Warning! Never operate a microwave oven without food or liquid inside it. Microwave ovens heat by bombarding the food or liquid in the oven with super-high-frequency microwave sound energy. If there's no food or liquid in the oven to absorb the microwave energy, the energy can feed back to the microwave itself, which can permanently damage the internal microwave antenna (magnetron).
Fridge maintenance tips
Manual-defrost refrigerator/freezers:
Manual defrost refrigerator/freezers require very little maintenance. When frost has accumulated on the inside walls of the freezer to a thickness of ½ inch or so, remove the food from the refrigerator/freezer, turn off the thermostat or unplug the unit, and allow all of the frost to melt. Once the frost has melted completely, turn the unit back on, wait for it to reach its operating temperature, and restock it with food.
Self-defrosting refrigerator/freezers:
You don't need to manually defrost your self-defrosting refrigerator/freezer. Every 6 to 8 hours, it heats up its cooling coils slightly and melts any frost accumulation on the coils. The resulting water drains into a shallow pan at the bottom of the refrigerator/freezer. There's no need to empty the pan. The water in it will evaporate. But it may begin to smell bad over time. You may be able to remove it for periodic cleaning by detaching the lower grill and sliding the pan out the front of the refrigerator/freezer. Note: When mold grows in the drain pan, it is sometimes considered to be a health concern. If your drain pan is removable, and if you're sensitive to mold, consider cleaning the drain pan periodically.
Under your refrigerator/freezer is a set of coils and a cooling fan that you need to clean at least once a year. The coils may look like a grate or like a wide radiator. Unplug the refrigerator/freezer and use a Refrigerator Condenser Brush, and your vacuum cleaner to clean any lint, pet hair, and so on from the coils.
Manual defrost refrigerator/freezers require very little maintenance. When frost has accumulated on the inside walls of the freezer to a thickness of ½ inch or so, remove the food from the refrigerator/freezer, turn off the thermostat or unplug the unit, and allow all of the frost to melt. Once the frost has melted completely, turn the unit back on, wait for it to reach its operating temperature, and restock it with food.
Self-defrosting refrigerator/freezers:
You don't need to manually defrost your self-defrosting refrigerator/freezer. Every 6 to 8 hours, it heats up its cooling coils slightly and melts any frost accumulation on the coils. The resulting water drains into a shallow pan at the bottom of the refrigerator/freezer. There's no need to empty the pan. The water in it will evaporate. But it may begin to smell bad over time. You may be able to remove it for periodic cleaning by detaching the lower grill and sliding the pan out the front of the refrigerator/freezer. Note: When mold grows in the drain pan, it is sometimes considered to be a health concern. If your drain pan is removable, and if you're sensitive to mold, consider cleaning the drain pan periodically.
Under your refrigerator/freezer is a set of coils and a cooling fan that you need to clean at least once a year. The coils may look like a grate or like a wide radiator. Unplug the refrigerator/freezer and use a Refrigerator Condenser Brush, and your vacuum cleaner to clean any lint, pet hair, and so on from the coils.
Range Efficiency Tips
· Use toaster ovens, crock-pots or microwaves when cooking small meals.
· Glass or ceramic pans heat faster and more evenly, allowing oven temperatures to decrease by 50 degrees fahrenheit.
· Use small pans whenever possible as they require less energy.
· Copper bottom pots heat faster than regular pots.
· Cover pots to avoid heat loss.
· Whenever possible, cook several dishes in the oven at once.
· Preheat oven to the minimum heat required.
· Avoid opening the oven door when in use as large amounts of heat escape.
· Ensure that the oven door fits tightly and the door gasket is not worn or stiff.
· Do not use tin foil underneath the burners, as this will cause burners to run hotter and burn out faster.
· Refrain from using foil on oven racks as air needs to circulate.
· Using the broiler element eliminates the need to pre-heat the oven (since only the top of the food is being broiled).
· Self cleaning ovens are more efficient because they have extra insulation, heat is distributed more evenly and less energy is consumed.
· Use the self clean function right after cooking because the oven is already heated.
· To reduce cooking time, thaw food out before cooking.
· On gas ovens, electric ignition saves up to 41% of gas in ovens and 53% on top burners, in comparison to a standing pilot light, which burns continuously.
· Look for blue flames on burners (yellow flames mean that gas is burning inefficiently).
· Glass or ceramic pans heat faster and more evenly, allowing oven temperatures to decrease by 50 degrees fahrenheit.
· Use small pans whenever possible as they require less energy.
· Copper bottom pots heat faster than regular pots.
· Cover pots to avoid heat loss.
· Whenever possible, cook several dishes in the oven at once.
· Preheat oven to the minimum heat required.
· Avoid opening the oven door when in use as large amounts of heat escape.
· Ensure that the oven door fits tightly and the door gasket is not worn or stiff.
· Do not use tin foil underneath the burners, as this will cause burners to run hotter and burn out faster.
· Refrain from using foil on oven racks as air needs to circulate.
· Using the broiler element eliminates the need to pre-heat the oven (since only the top of the food is being broiled).
· Self cleaning ovens are more efficient because they have extra insulation, heat is distributed more evenly and less energy is consumed.
· Use the self clean function right after cooking because the oven is already heated.
· To reduce cooking time, thaw food out before cooking.
· On gas ovens, electric ignition saves up to 41% of gas in ovens and 53% on top burners, in comparison to a standing pilot light, which burns continuously.
· Look for blue flames on burners (yellow flames mean that gas is burning inefficiently).
Dishwasher maintenance tips
Interior cleaning & deodorizing: You don't need to clean the interior of your dishwasher if you use it regularly. If it goes unused for a week or more and begins to mold or smell bad, you can run an empty cycle (using dishwasher detergent).
Exterior cleaning: Just clean the exterior of your dishwasher with a damp sponge and a little dish detergent.
Dish rack repairs: If the plastic coating wears off of the tines of the dish racks in your dishwasher, they may corrode and rust. Kits are available to buy so you can touch your racks up.
Filter cleaning: On many dishwashers, there's a filter near the bottom, or under the lower spray arm that needs to be cleaned regularly. If you have this sort of filter, check your owner's manual to find out how to remove and clean it. If it has holes in it, replace it to protect the pump and motor seals from particles that may be in the dishwasher.
Spray arm cleaning: Over time, the small holes in the spray arm(s) of your dishwasher may become clogged with bits of paper, toothpicks, glass, etc. Your dishwasher will do a better job of cleaning your dishes if you take a moment to clean out these small holes, from time to time.
Exterior cleaning: Just clean the exterior of your dishwasher with a damp sponge and a little dish detergent.
Dish rack repairs: If the plastic coating wears off of the tines of the dish racks in your dishwasher, they may corrode and rust. Kits are available to buy so you can touch your racks up.
Filter cleaning: On many dishwashers, there's a filter near the bottom, or under the lower spray arm that needs to be cleaned regularly. If you have this sort of filter, check your owner's manual to find out how to remove and clean it. If it has holes in it, replace it to protect the pump and motor seals from particles that may be in the dishwasher.
Spray arm cleaning: Over time, the small holes in the spray arm(s) of your dishwasher may become clogged with bits of paper, toothpicks, glass, etc. Your dishwasher will do a better job of cleaning your dishes if you take a moment to clean out these small holes, from time to time.
Dishwasher FAQs
NOTE: When experiencing problems with any appliance, the first thing the customer should do is check to see that there is power going to the unit by checking the breaker box.
Which detergent type is better: liquid gel or powder?
We recommend the powdered/granular detergents--like Cascade--because sometimes the gels don't perform as well. We've also found that prominent brands are better than some of the generics.
Do I need to clean the inside of my dishwasher?
It depends. If you use the dishwasher at least twice a week, you don't need to clean the inside. Otherwise, if it begins to get moldy inside--or if the residual water at the bottom of the dishwasher smells bad--put detergent in the soap dish and run the dishwasher empty, through a complete cycle.
Do I have to rinse my dishes before washing them?
Not usually. Most dishwashers handle the normal food residue left on dishes after eating, if you first scrape the dishes to remove any larger bits of food. But if anything is burned, melted, or stuck to the dishes, rinse and scrape them well, before you put them into the dishwasher. Leaving some residue is actually best, because the protein in the food reacts with the soap for more effective cleaning.
My dishwasher takes too long. What's wrong?
It may be a model that pre-heats the water. If so, and if the water entering the dishwasher is cool, the heater may take up to half an hour to heat the water. To avoid the wait, increase the incoming water temperature before turning on the dishwasher. Do that by running the kitchen sink faucet until the water runs hot. Or increase the temperature of the hot water to the entire house at the hot water heater. Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees fahrenheit.
Should there be water in the bottom of my dishwasher?
Yes. All dishwashers leave a small amount of water in the bottom, to keep the seals and pump wet. If the seals dry out, they can become brittle and begin to leak water.
My cups and glasses are coming out spotty and filmy. What's wrong?
For spotting only, try using the heated drying cycle. If that doesn't help, try one of the rinse-aid products you can find at your supermarket. Film can be caused by a couple of things:
· It could be from a lack of water flow within the dishwasher.
· It also could be from hard water. If you can remove the film with vinegar, it's probably caused by hard water deposits.
Etching--a corrosion of the glass--can be caused by using too much detergent. A rainbow hue on the glasses is the first sign of etching. Try cutting in half the amount of detergent you use.
Do I really have to run the water in the sink before starting a cycle?
Yes. Dishwashers work best with very hot water. Letting the water at the sink run for a few moments (until it's hot) before turning on the dishwasher brings hot water to the dishwasher faster.
Which detergent type is better: liquid gel or powder?
We recommend the powdered/granular detergents--like Cascade--because sometimes the gels don't perform as well. We've also found that prominent brands are better than some of the generics.
Do I need to clean the inside of my dishwasher?
It depends. If you use the dishwasher at least twice a week, you don't need to clean the inside. Otherwise, if it begins to get moldy inside--or if the residual water at the bottom of the dishwasher smells bad--put detergent in the soap dish and run the dishwasher empty, through a complete cycle.
Do I have to rinse my dishes before washing them?
Not usually. Most dishwashers handle the normal food residue left on dishes after eating, if you first scrape the dishes to remove any larger bits of food. But if anything is burned, melted, or stuck to the dishes, rinse and scrape them well, before you put them into the dishwasher. Leaving some residue is actually best, because the protein in the food reacts with the soap for more effective cleaning.
My dishwasher takes too long. What's wrong?
It may be a model that pre-heats the water. If so, and if the water entering the dishwasher is cool, the heater may take up to half an hour to heat the water. To avoid the wait, increase the incoming water temperature before turning on the dishwasher. Do that by running the kitchen sink faucet until the water runs hot. Or increase the temperature of the hot water to the entire house at the hot water heater. Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees fahrenheit.
Should there be water in the bottom of my dishwasher?
Yes. All dishwashers leave a small amount of water in the bottom, to keep the seals and pump wet. If the seals dry out, they can become brittle and begin to leak water.
My cups and glasses are coming out spotty and filmy. What's wrong?
For spotting only, try using the heated drying cycle. If that doesn't help, try one of the rinse-aid products you can find at your supermarket. Film can be caused by a couple of things:
· It could be from a lack of water flow within the dishwasher.
· It also could be from hard water. If you can remove the film with vinegar, it's probably caused by hard water deposits.
Etching--a corrosion of the glass--can be caused by using too much detergent. A rainbow hue on the glasses is the first sign of etching. Try cutting in half the amount of detergent you use.
Do I really have to run the water in the sink before starting a cycle?
Yes. Dishwashers work best with very hot water. Letting the water at the sink run for a few moments (until it's hot) before turning on the dishwasher brings hot water to the dishwasher faster.
Dryer efficiency tips
· The heating element uses the most energy; therefore, you can use the automatic settings over the time settings to save energy.
· The permanent press cycle has a longer cool down cycle that reduces energy use.
· Do not do partial loads or too large of loads. Overloading of the dryer reduces circulation of air causing the dryer to be less efficient.
· Always clean the lint screen between loads.
· The major problem with dryer efficiency is the venting. Always use the shortest length of venting and 4 inches of diameter.
· Venting has to be steel or aluminum ducting.
· Make sure venting does not kink or become obstructed.
· Check vent on the outside of the house in case of damages to the vent cap or vent hood.
· The cost of drying clothes for a typical load is 30 to 40 cents in an electric dryer, 15 to 25 cents in a gas dryer (source: Ontario Hydro).
· Make use of clotheslines whenever possible.
· The permanent press cycle has a longer cool down cycle that reduces energy use.
· Do not do partial loads or too large of loads. Overloading of the dryer reduces circulation of air causing the dryer to be less efficient.
· Always clean the lint screen between loads.
· The major problem with dryer efficiency is the venting. Always use the shortest length of venting and 4 inches of diameter.
· Venting has to be steel or aluminum ducting.
· Make sure venting does not kink or become obstructed.
· Check vent on the outside of the house in case of damages to the vent cap or vent hood.
· The cost of drying clothes for a typical load is 30 to 40 cents in an electric dryer, 15 to 25 cents in a gas dryer (source: Ontario Hydro).
· Make use of clotheslines whenever possible.
Dryer maintenance tips
Vent: Your dryer vent pipe should be made of aluminum. The white vinyl duct that was common several years ago no longer meets most building codes, because if your dryer ignites it, a fire may start in your home. Check the entire length of the vent pipe for lint build-up at least once a year--or more often if the dryer gets a lot of use. Note: Remove the lint from the duct--don't just push it back into the dryer or let it clog any part of the vent. You can tackle lint build-up in the duct with our Vent Brush for Cleaning 4" Round Dryer Vent accessory. It's available in 10 and 20 foot lengths.
Interior of dryer cabinet: The lint produced by clothes tumbling in a dryer is normally trapped by the lint filter. However, some lint invariably escapes and accumulates on the inside of the dryer cabinet. At least once a year, check the inside of the cabinet, and clean it if necessary. Do this more frequently if the dryer is used heavily.
Lint filter: Check and clean the lint filter after every drying cycle. If the lint filter has any rips or tears, replace it. If the filter gets clogged by fabric softener residue or any other residue, you can easily clean it with a soft-bristle brush and a little detergent.
Area under lint filter: You can also clean the chute, duct, or area that the lint filter fits into. If necessary, use a vacuum cleaner to reach into the duct and clean out any lint. Note: If the lint build-up is severe, it's important to disassemble the dryer and clean out the lint more thoroughly. This is often a job for a qualified appliance repair technician, because there's a risk of injuring yourself or damaging the machine.
Interior of dryer cabinet: The lint produced by clothes tumbling in a dryer is normally trapped by the lint filter. However, some lint invariably escapes and accumulates on the inside of the dryer cabinet. At least once a year, check the inside of the cabinet, and clean it if necessary. Do this more frequently if the dryer is used heavily.
Lint filter: Check and clean the lint filter after every drying cycle. If the lint filter has any rips or tears, replace it. If the filter gets clogged by fabric softener residue or any other residue, you can easily clean it with a soft-bristle brush and a little detergent.
Area under lint filter: You can also clean the chute, duct, or area that the lint filter fits into. If necessary, use a vacuum cleaner to reach into the duct and clean out any lint. Note: If the lint build-up is severe, it's important to disassemble the dryer and clean out the lint more thoroughly. This is often a job for a qualified appliance repair technician, because there's a risk of injuring yourself or damaging the machine.
Dishwasher efficiency tips
Here are several tips to help you get the most out of your dishwasher:
· 80% of total energy used by dishwashers is to heat water; therefore, use a short cycle or economical wash, which will use less hot water.
· The “rinse and hold” cycle uses up to 7 gallons of water each time it is used.
· Scraping off dishes is all that is necessary, there is no need to rinse them before putting them into the dishwasher.
· A dishwasher still uses less water than doing dishes by hand and the water used in a dishwasher is hotter and kills more bacteria.
· Check owner’s manual on recommended water temperature (usually between 130 – 140 degrees).
· A heating element in the dishwasher will allow you to set the water heater to a lower level.
· Make sure the dishwasher is properly loaded and full to allow it to clean thoroughly and save energy.
· Use dishwasher during “off peak” hours (use timer if available) to take advantage of lower electrical rates.
· Let dishes air dry (use energy saver switch if available).
· When racks rust in a dishwasher they may break apart and go into the pump and wreck it, which can result in a costly repair bill.
· 80% of total energy used by dishwashers is to heat water; therefore, use a short cycle or economical wash, which will use less hot water.
· The “rinse and hold” cycle uses up to 7 gallons of water each time it is used.
· Scraping off dishes is all that is necessary, there is no need to rinse them before putting them into the dishwasher.
· A dishwasher still uses less water than doing dishes by hand and the water used in a dishwasher is hotter and kills more bacteria.
· Check owner’s manual on recommended water temperature (usually between 130 – 140 degrees).
· A heating element in the dishwasher will allow you to set the water heater to a lower level.
· Make sure the dishwasher is properly loaded and full to allow it to clean thoroughly and save energy.
· Use dishwasher during “off peak” hours (use timer if available) to take advantage of lower electrical rates.
· Let dishes air dry (use energy saver switch if available).
· When racks rust in a dishwasher they may break apart and go into the pump and wreck it, which can result in a costly repair bill.
· Small holes in the wash arms can become clogged with mineral deposits, which can lead to complaints of the dishwasher not cleaning properly. To re-open holes use small pin and hot vinegar.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
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